Luxury travel trends in 2013

 

 

With 2013 now well and truly underway, what can we expect the year to bring as far as luxury tourism is concerned? We got in touch with three members of the travel industry – all Directors at their respective travel businesses – and asked them what they each anticipated the year would bring. Here’s what they had to say:

“We are seeing strong growth in private and custom tour requests from young, successful families. Clients in their early 30s and 40s are planning adventurous Ireland trips for the extended family including grandparents, young children and even babies. They want their children to have authentic cultural experiences whilst retaining their own travel freedom. Private touring provides the independence they want with the structure and local insight that makes for a fantastic tour. For 2013, we are also seeing a trend towards ‘value based luxury’ – clients opting for smaller, boutique accommodations that can reduce overall costs by 20-25%.” Andrew Carr, Managing Director, Kennedy & Carr Ireland Travel.
“As the world moves ever faster there is an even greater need to escape the hurly burly; we see clients wanting to get more off the beaten track to find space and authentic experiences in 2013 and to take advantage of more personal experiences – tailor made expert advice, premium travel by air and rail and smaller upmarket character hotels along with smaller luxury cruise ships. We expect less well known destinations to secure a firmer place in 2013 as true journeys of discovery – places such as Namibia, Malawi, Burma, Cambodia, Mongolia, Oman and Colombia. Within the established favourites we expect to see more travel beyond the icons and the expected, as people explore ‘new’ parts of Australia, New Zealand, Canada, the USA and Morocco, and seek out new experiences such as the northern lights, private safaris and the last great frontiers such as Antarctica. As always exchange rates and safety will be key underlying considerations for our travellers, so expect specialist cruising to continue to grow, along with escorted tours, and US dollar denominated destinations to perform well. Our travellers all enjoy the research and planning stages of their trips, and given the plethora of sources they will rely even more on their trusted travel partners, the companies who genuinely know the destinations and who are passionate about their role in making dreams come true. Our brand essence at WEXAS is “serious travel personalised” which we believe is exactly what the luxury traveller wants in 2013. Steve Allen, Managing Director, WEXAS Tailor-made Travel
“We are definitely experiencing an increase in guests wanting a ‘truly memorable stay’ with a much more substantial itinerary than a simple self-catered house hire and we have seen the demand for fully catered and staffed breaks increase. Clients are also tailoring their stays more with luxury activities and country pursuits such as clay shooting or archery in a sunny English garden, private cheese and wine tasting sessions or an exciting murder mystery evening.

Wonderful Indonesia beckons visitors

Indonesia is beautiful, diverse and sometimes daunting,




At less than three km long and two km wide, Gili Trawangan is one of three small islands off the northeast coast of Indonesia’s Lombok Island; while ‘gili’, if you are interested, simply means ‘small island’ in Sasak, the language spoken by most people in Lombok.
Blessed with spectacular white beaches, turquoise waters, coral reefs teeming with marine life, and picturesque silhouettes of Lombok’s Mount Rinjani mirrored on turquoise waters, Gili Trawangan is easily reached by speedboat from Lombok.
An exhilarating 15-minute ride gets your adrenalin pumping as you reach its shores and step back in time into an island that’s home to a mere 2,000 residents, with not a single car, bus or motorbike in sight.
In fact, all you will see are horses and carriages, bicycles and boats, which are the sole means of transport within and to the island.
Once there, you can dive into azure blue waters, snorkel, go canoeing or banana boating, play beach volleyball, ride a horse, go fishing or cycling: the “party island” as it is known locally is a paradise for those who love nature and water sports.
But even if you don’t dip a single toe into its alluring waters, Gili Trawangan offers an exquisite respite from the daily grind of the Gulf. Coming to the island in the midst of a hectic four-stop tour of Indonesia, I was more than content to do a Shirley Valentine and relax at the Hotel Vila Ombak, which was playing host to our group of journalists from the Gulf.
After a refreshing welcome drink accompanied by a cold towel to dab away the sweltering heat, we were escorted to our rooms or “hideways” which open out into a private backyard where one can bathe under the sun or stars! And though Gili Trawangan does not have much fresh water, the hotel thoughtfully provides “sweet” water in a pitcher to rinse the salt away once you’ve showered.
The hotel also has a spa which blends Indonesian and Western treatments while a diving academy and water sports hut are on hand for the more adventurous.
Eager to explore the island, I jumped onto a horse-drawn carriage called a cidomo for a bumpy tour which took all of 45 minutes, trundling though mostly virgin terrain before going on to look around the shops along the stretch near the hotel.
Gili Trawangan is also perfect for romance: the setting sun and a dappled sky streaked in pink and indigo created a magnificent backdrop for a wedding held under a canopy on the beach as fireworks lit up the night sky.
Indonesia is keen to attract more Middle East visitors to Lombok, which is predominantly Muslim. The island now has a new airport at Praya in the south and is seeking investors to develop the neighbouring region as a tourist destination.
Indonesia’s cultural diversity is proudly portrayed in its numerous museums in Jakarta, ranging from one that depicts Indonesia in miniature to a museum that displays the various gifts from foreign leaders to Suharto, who was the second president of Indonesia, to a martial arts museum and Bayt Al Quran, which houses a collection of old Korans.
Located to the southeast of the city, Taman Mini Indonesia Indah (Beautiful Indonesia in Miniature Park) lets you see the archipelago in one day, showcasing Indonesia’s 27 provinces and their outstanding characteristics, portrayed through the various architectural styles of each province.
The Cultural Museum is housed in an impressive replica of a temple in Bali and its highlights include a remarkable display of wedding outfits and an insight into the various traditional ceremonies.
No visit to Jakarta is complete without a trip to the National Monument, a gold-covered obelisk topped by a flame symbolising the nation’s independence, but be prepared for traffic snarls.
The highlight of my trip was undoubtedly Bali but a 90-minute delay on a 20-minute flight cruelly robbed me of the opportunity to see the island at an earthly hour. Nevertheless, I pampered myself at the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, which lies bang opposite Kuta, one of Bali’s most beautiful beaches in Denpasar, the provincial capital and island’s largest city.
Located just 10 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, the Discovery Kartika Plaza also has the local market and entertainment within walking distance. As a guest of the Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy (MOTCE), I was allocated a beachfront villa which had two master bedrooms, a living room, kitchenette, private pool and 24-hour butler service.
With just three hours left after breakfast before we had to head for the airport, our ever-smiling guide Rihan let us indulge in acquiring tangible memories of Indonesia with a trip to a souvenir store before we settled down to an farewell meal of steamed rice in a banana leaf, roast chicken and fish served in the traditional basket.
Tourists to Indonesia should be prepared to take on the challenges of transportation, heat and humidity in their stride. Its airports are neither state of the art nor terribly efficient and if you intend to island-hop, leave plenty of leeway for delays. However, if you can overcome these hurdles, the country of emerald islands, turquoise beaches, clear skies and warm people is a diverse and exciting destination that will leave you enriched and wanting to return for more.












                                                                    



                                                           

At less than three km long and two km wide, Gili Trawangan is one of three small islands off the northeast coast of Indonesia’s Lombok Island; while ‘gili’, if you are interested, simply means ‘small island’ in Sasak, the language spoken by most people in Lombok. Blessed with spectacular white beaches, turquoise waters, coral reefs teeming with marine life, and picturesque silhouettes of Lombok’s Mount Rinjani mirrored on turquoise waters, Gili Trawangan is easily reached by speedboat from Lombok. An exhilarating 15-minute ride gets your adrenalin pumping as you reach its shores and step back in time into an island that’s home to a mere 2,000 residents, with not a single car, bus or motorbike in sight. In fact, all you will see are horses and carriages, bicycles and boats, which are the sole means of transport within and to the island. Once there, you can dive into azure blue waters, snorkel, go canoeing or banana boating, play beach volleyball, ride a horse, go fishing or cycling: the “party island” as it is known locally is a paradise for those who love nature and water sports. But even if you don’t dip a single toe into its alluring waters, Gili Trawangan offers an exquisite respite from the daily grind of the Gulf. Coming to the island in the midst of a hectic four-stop tour of Indonesia, I was more than content to do a Shirley Valentine and relax at the Hotel Vila Ombak, which was playing host to our group of journalists from the Gulf. After a refreshing welcome drink accompanied by a cold towel to dab away the sweltering heat, we were escorted to our rooms or “hideways” which open out into a private backyard where one can bathe under the sun or stars! And though Gili Trawangan does not have much fresh water, the hotel thoughtfully provides “sweet” water in a pitcher to rinse the salt away once you’ve showered. The hotel also has a spa which blends Indonesian and Western treatments while a diving academy and water sports hut are on hand for the more adventurous. Eager to explore the island, I jumped onto a horse-drawn carriage called a cidomo for a bumpy tour which took all of 45 minutes, trundling though mostly virgin terrain before going on to look around the shops along the stretch near the hotel. Gili Trawangan is also perfect for romance: the setting sun and a dappled sky streaked in pink and indigo created a magnificent backdrop for a wedding held under a canopy on the beach as fireworks lit up the night sky. Indonesia is keen to attract more Middle East visitors to Lombok, which is predominantly Muslim. The island now has a new airport at Praya in the south and is seeking investors to develop the neighbouring region as a tourist destination. Indonesia’s cultural diversity is proudly portrayed in its numerous museums in Jakarta, ranging from one that depicts Indonesia in miniature to a museum that displays the various gifts from foreign leaders to Suharto, who was the second president of Indonesia, to a martial arts museum and Bayt Al Quran, which houses a collection of old Korans. Located to the southeast of the city, Taman Mini Indonesia Indah (Beautiful Indonesia in Miniature Park) lets you see the archipelago in one day, showcasing Indonesia’s 27 provinces and their outstanding characteristics, portrayed through the various architectural styles of each province. The Cultural Museum is housed in an impressive replica of a temple in Bali and its highlights include a remarkable display of wedding outfits and an insight into the various traditional ceremonies. No visit to Jakarta is complete without a trip to the National Monument, a gold-covered obelisk topped by a flame symbolising the nation’s independence, but be prepared for traffic snarls. The highlight of my trip was undoubtedly Bali but a 90-minute delay on a 20-minute flight cruelly robbed me of the opportunity to see the island at an earthly hour. Nevertheless, I pampered myself at the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, which lies bang opposite Kuta, one of Bali’s most beautiful beaches in Denpasar, the provincial capital and island’s largest city. Located just 10 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, the Discovery Kartika Plaza also has the local market and entertainment within walking distance. As a guest of the Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy (MOTCE), I was allocated a beachfront villa which had two master bedrooms, a living room, kitchenette, private pool and 24-hour butler service. With just three hours left after breakfast before we had to head for the airport, our ever-smiling guide Rihan let us indulge in acquiring tangible memories of Indonesia with a trip to a souvenir store before we settled down to an farewell meal of steamed rice in a banana leaf, roast chicken and fish served in the traditional basket. Tourists to Indonesia should be prepared to take on the challenges of transportation, heat and humidity in their stride. Its airports are neither state of the art nor terribly efficient and if you intend to island-hop, leave plenty of leeway for delays. However, if you can overcome these hurdles, the country of emerald islands, turquoise beaches, clear skies and warm people is a diverse and exciting destination that will leave you enriched and wanting to return for more. 



First-class flying

The Lufthansa 747-8I takes to the skies and does not fail to impress
Two thousand and twelve has been an important year for German carrier Lufthansa’s premium product and service offering, with the start of a gradual roll-out of a new Business Class cabin across the fleet, and the receipt in May of the first of several new aircraft – Boeing’s new 747-8 Intercontinental.
In the seven months since Lufthansa brought the 747-8I into commercial service as the launch customer, the aircraft has received rave reviews, from both within the industry and also premium class passengers traveling between Frankfurt and Washington DC, Los Angeles, New Delhi and Bangalore.


A new level of flying on board Lufthansa’s First Class cabin

In early November, TTN was invited by Lufthansa to experience the 747-8I from Frankfurt to Washington, and to see whether the Queen of the Skies lived up to the considerable hype of the marketing brochures – which quoted one Boeing spokesman as saying that when passengers enter the 747-8 “they will notice that they are in a completely new aircraft and will experience a new kind of flying”.
Immediately upon embarkation, the 747-8I does feel different to its closest cousin, the 747-400. Subtly at first, the aircraft quickly begins to come into its own with a distinctive style and ambience.
Such an observation is, perhaps, hardly surprising. Boeing says it hired architects and psychologists when developing the interiors, and the results are very effective.
The sense of space in both First and Business Class cabins, particularly compared to the 747-400, is striking, thanks to clever lighting effects and what Boeing says is a more ‘open architecture’. 

     Guests can indulge in a quick pre-flight massage at the First Class Spa                                                                                     

Furthermore, the First Class cabin on the 747-8I is cocooned in the nose section of the main deck – eight seats, each convertible into a lie-flat bed just over two metres long and 80 cm wide, cocooned in what Lufthansa claims is the world’s quietest First Class in the air, and avoiding through traffic from other cabins on the ground too. So secluded is the cabin, which features outer skin insulation, sound-absorbing curtains and sound-deadening material in the floors – that Boeing calls it a ‘jet in a jet’.
Joseph Ozimek, Boeing’s vice president of sales and marketing and product marketing for the 747-8I, says the extraordinarily quiet First Class section is due primarily to its location.

The overhead of the First Class cabin is shielded from boundary layer noise [the noise of air rushing over the external surface of the plane] because that is where the upper deck is. And the lower deck is where the cargo is, so you only get boundary layer noise from the side,” he explains.
Unlike its Middle East rival Emirates, which has pioneered private suites in First Class, Lufthansa has opted for a more conventional fit out. Carsten Schaeffer, the airline’s vice president, sales and services for Southeast Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Pakistan, says this was a conscious decision made based on customer feedback.
“Our customers asked for bigger washrooms in First Class, and we provided that,” he says. “They [the passengers] clearly said they did not want a shower, because the challenge with a shower is that everybody wants to take one before arrival – and how do you manage that without queues?

We provide lounges in Frankfurt where you can shower in a clean, safe and comfortable environment. We found that more valuable, and that’s also the feedback we received from our customers,” he adds.The lounges in Frankfurt Airport, not least the exquisite and exclusive Lufthansa First Class Terminal – a 1,800 sq m haven at the hectic European transit hub – certainly do provide the highest levels of luxury and comfort, from bedrooms, a spa and relaxation areas to a la carte fine dining and fully equipped office units.
Yet it is the Terminal’s practical convenience – passengers can, for example, drive right up to the front door, have their car valet parked or rental car returned, and be greeted seconds later by a personal assistant to complete check-in and security formalities, which is arguably its most valuable attributes, further enhanced by personalised limousine transfer service straight to the door of the aircraft.
Schaeffer insists that achieving ‘seamless’ service throughout the entire First Class travel experience is a core goal for the airline.
“First Class prices are high so it is all about the product, both on board and on the ground. It is important to have a consistent, seamless offering for First Class passengers from pre- to post-flight,” he explains. “We see from the double digit growth we have in First Class travel that this strategy is proving successful,” he adds.
Taken together, the new 747-8I and First Class Terminal at Frankfurt are a very compelling proposition for the discerning traveller. With more 747-8Is to be delivered through 2013, even more passengers will experience the steadily growing legend in the near future.
And while there is no word from Lufthansa on when or if the new plane will serve Middle East routes, in our opinion the First Class product and service is well worth experiencing sooner rather than later.

(Top to Bottom) On board the 747-8I are spacious washrooms, two-meter long lie-flat beds and a service quality that is second to none



Top 10 cities 2013

Best in Travel 2013 - Top 10 cities

 

1. San Francisco
Darling of America's west coast
Best for: Culture, events, food

Quirky shop front decoration, Haight Street, The Haight.

© Copyright Lonely Planet Images

Famous for hills, earthquakes and a penchant for liberal politics, San Francisco continues to attract kindred spirits, eagerly embracing all newcomers to the bosom of its cultural mélange. If you need an extra incentive to get yourself to San Francisco, the city has an ace up its sleeve – the 34th America’s Cup is coming to fog city in 2013, and big changes and upgrades are afoot all along San Francisco’s heaving waterfront.

2. Amsterdam
Golden Age charmer prepares to party
Best for: Culture, events, food

Lights along canal bridges along Herengracht near the famous 'Golden Bend'.

 

Amsterdam always cast a spell on travellers, but the party ramps up big-time in 2013, when more anniversaries than you can shake a herring at coincide. The famed canal ring turns 400 years old. It’s Vincent van Gogh’s 160th birthday and the 40th for his colour-swirled museum. The Rijksmuseum re-opens after a 10-year renovation. The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra – often considered the world’s best – blows out 125 candles. Plus the Artis Royal Zoo and Felix Meritis cultural centre mark 175 years and 225 years, respectively. It all adds up to a slew of celebratory concerts, exhibits and street fests grooving throughout 2013.

3. Hyderabad
Old City recapturing past glories
Best for: Culture, food, value for money

Vendor at street stall at foot of the Charminar.

 

Hyderabad was once the capital of a filthy-rich princely state. After India’s independence, the palaces and pleasure gardens were sold off, built over and looted, and you had to be really sharp to see the city’s beauty. But several palaces in Hyderabad’s Old City have recently been refurbished, including Falaknuma Palace, a seven-star hotel that was skilfully restored by the Taj Group and is now an exceedingly plush time capsule. Other monuments and buildings are being fixed up, but the city, and many of its architectural gems, are still off the radar – which keeps the masses at bay. Elegant and blossoming, but also weathered and undiscovered, Hyderabad’s Old City is ripe for exploration.

4. Londonderry/Derry
Packed calendar for UK City of Culture
Best for: Culture, events, family

You Are Now Entering Free Derry

Londonderry/Derry is the UK City of Culture 2013, which means this vibrant, historic walled city is undergoing a renaissance. The year will see a wealth of cultural events, including the 10-day All Ireland Fleadh, the world’s biggest Irish festival and it also plays host to the always-controversial Turner Prize. The city will buzz throughout the year with hundreds of other events, from pageants to music to contemporary dance. Derry also hosts lots of regular festivals, such as the Jazz Festival and Earhart Festival (in 2013 celebrating 80 years since American aviation pioneer Amelia Earhart landed here), celebrations for which will all be cranked up a notch.

5. Běijīng
Capital on cusp of greatness
Best for: Culture, value for money, food

Artist painting in the Forbidden City.

 

Běijīng remains as the cultural and artistic centre of China. While the 2008 Olympics may now seem like a distant memory, their effect is enduring – there are English street signs and a multitude of architectural gems such as the Bird’s Nest studded across the sprawling city. More recently, the Běijīng–Shanghai high-speed rail now connects the two cities in under five hours. Today, Běijīng tentatively balances a multitude of (growing) populations and subcultures. There’s a palpable sense of change in the air, though no-one quite knows what to expect. China is on the cusp of true greatness and one day, people will look back and say it all started here.

6. Christchurch
Rising from the rubble with flair
Best for: Culture, events, family

Pop-up shipping-container shopping centre in Cashel St.

New Zealand’s ‘Garden City’ is rising from the rubble created by devastating earthquakes in 2010 and 2011 with a breathtaking mix of spirit, determination and flair. With a unique opportunity to rethink urban form, Christchurch is bouncing back with a new energy and inventiveness. Foodies will be surprised by the variety of what is on offer, from Burmese to Turkish to local specialities, live-music venues have popped up all over the place, and innovative artworks fill empty demolition sites. 2013 will be an intriguing year to join the rebirth.

7. Hobart
Harbour town becomes hip
Best for: Events, culture, food

Fishing fleet and their lobster pots moored in Victoria Docks, Hobart.

 

The sleepy harbour town reputation attracts a solid ‘outdoorsy’ set, but the recent arrival of the world-class MONA museum has the waters rippling, hip tourists flocking and Hobart rousing from its slumber. 2013 will see the new kid on the block team up with the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery (TMAG) for the Theatre of the World exhibition curated by Jean-Hubert Martin, former director of the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris. This year will also prove exciting for Hobart’s already burgeoning gastronomic scene as the city’s culinary credentials continue to rise.

8. Montréal
Mélange of cultures marries brains and beauty
Best for: Culture, events, value for money

Le Vieux-Montréal

 

Having recently gained a high rank on city lists including the world’s happiest (Lonely Planet, 2010) and hippest (New York Times, 2011), this year Montréal’s angling for a top spot, showing off in Stephen Spielberg’s summer release Robopocalypse, and inviting everyone for drinks at the new urban beach. But Montréal’s got brains as well as beauty. Spring 2013 marks the launch of the new Rio Tinto Alcan Planetarium, rounding out the ambitious ‘Space for Life’ project. And Montréal’s social calendar is also bubbling over with the unveiling of the Grévin wax museum at the Eaton Centre, the 50th-anniversary celebrations of the Place des Arts, and the new Point Zero hotel, owned by the eponymous fashion label.

9. Addis Ababa
Ethiopian metropolis evolving at pace
Best for: Culture, food, value for money

Portrait of jousting competitor at festival of Timkat, dressed in style of traditional Abyssinian warrior, with Gelada monkey headdress and embroidered cloak.

Like the Ethiopian marathon runners, Addis Ababa (often shortened to plain ‘Addis’) is evolving at a fast pace. The fact that the country’s economic growth should reach almost 5% in 2013 helps create a feeling of confidence and stamina. Founded little more than a century ago, Addis Ababa, which in Amharic means ‘New Flower’, is not only the diplomatic capital of Africa and a thriving metropolis, but also a groovy city that takes pride in its multifaceted assets.

10. Puerto Iguazú
Much more than just a waterfall
Best for: Family, activities, adventure

Iguazú Falls

It’s official: votes are in, and the Foz de Iguazú has won its place among the prestigious new seven wonders of nature, following a worldwide 2011 poll. That this phenomenal waterfall, spread-eagled along the Argentine–Brazil border, should make the final reckoning is no great shock. So tourism to these falls is set to morph: good news for Puerto Iguazú, the main tourist base hereabouts. ‘Iguazú’ – as locals call it – doesn’t just want to be the fall guy, though. After all, it offers some of the best hostels, top-end hotels and spas in the country, not to mention some stunning side trips.

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From the Andes to Patagonia

From the Andes to Patagonia – dazzled by spectacular sights in Chile and Argentina

Campanario Hill — Bariloche, Argentina. Photos

My wife, Jean and I took the Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) tour “Chile & Argentina: The Andes to Patagonia” plus their “Iguassu Falls Jungle Expedition” post-trip extension in November ’11. The visual splendor that we experienced was truly amazing! Add to that the wonderful diversity of activities and our superb guide Andrea Salas, who was continually looking for special and unique experiences, and you’ve got the recipe for an exceptional trip.

Beginning in Buenos Aires

We started in Buenos Aires, where we also spent time before and after our OAT tours. This gave us extra time on our own to explore and enjoy this attractive city, which is quite European in architecture and character.
Some of the highlights included the funky, colorful La Boca artists’ district; the Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada; the extravagant Recoleta Cemetery, where Evita is buried; the splendid opera house with supposedly the best acoustics in the world; the Japanese gardens, and the restored waterfront area of Puerto Madero.
One night on our own, we enjoyed walking through the Puerto Madero and had a great steak at the highly recommended Las Lilas waterfront restaurant. We split a large steak, as the dinner came with many extras. Our meal for two, without drinks, cost about $70.
On another evening we attended the famous Carlos Gardel Tango Show, a superb show of music and dance preceded by an excellent multicourse dinner with unlimited wine. At $90 per person, this optional activity was worth it. (How could we travel to Buenos Aires for the first time and not experience the tango?!)

Bariloche

From Buenos Aires we flew to Esquel, as the Bariloche airport had been closed since the June ’11 volcanic eruption in Chile. (The resulting ash had continued to blow into the area quite frequently.) The scenic, 3-hour private bus ride to Bariloche, the Little Switzerland in the Andes, was well worth the slight inconvenience.

Gaucho parade in Bariloche.

We checked in for three nights at the lovely Villa Huinid, featuring spacious rooms, an indoor pool, a gym, a spa and stunning views of Lake Nahuel Huapi backed by snowcapped mountains.
Our first full day brought clear blue skies and started with a horse ride (or a short, easy hike for the nonequestrians), followed by a chair-lift ride to the top of Campanario Hill. From there we took in the panoramic views of Patagonia’s striking scenery — deep-blue lakes and beautiful mountains in all directions.
Lunch followed at a family-owned craft brewery, with ample opportunity to sample some excellent homemade brews. After lunch, we relaxed with an optional float down the Limay River, taking in the local scenery and life.
Day two started with some informative interactions with the indigenous Mapuche people, followed by the annual gaucho parade in downtown Bariloche. What a colorful event and stroke of luck to be there at that time!

Two evenings and part of a day were free to experience Bariloche on our own. We enjoyed both a lunch and a dinner at the Familia Weiss, where we opted for lighter fare. Our excellent salads (seafood was the favorite) cost about $10 each.
Please note that we ate everything offered and drank tap water throughout our trip, as we were advised it was okay to do, without experiencing any problem.

On to Chile

From Bariloche we traveled by comfortable private bus to Chile and its coast, where a short ferry ride took us to the island of Chiloé.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our first full day there was devoted to “a day in the life of Chiloé.” This was a nice touch, added by OAT to immerse travelers into the culture of the area.
Starting with a visit to a market — always a great way to observe and absorb the local culture — we viewed the unusual stilt houses along the river, visited unique wooden churches and walked around the central plaza of Castro before enjoying a home-hosted meal of curanto.
This traditional meal is cooked over a pit of hot rocks and features chicken, pork, sausage, mussels and clams. It was a fantastic feast, and I have never tasted better mussels!
The next day, a boat trip near the fishing village of Puñihuil provided up-close encounters with the local wildlife, the highlight for us being the cute little Humboldt and Magellanic penguins.
In the late afternoon we visited a school that the Grand Circle Foundation, the charity of the parent company of OAT, supports. There we experienced a heartwarming encounter with the children of this poor school with one lone teacher. The students’ mothers brought in homemade snacks, and the children performed a local dance. Our visit was very special.
Back on the mainland, it was a short ride to Puerto Varas, a very scenic, European-type resort town in the heart of Chile’s Lake District.
Many years ago I passed Mt. Fuji and was disappointed to find it totally enshrouded in fog, but the towering, majestic, snow-covered Osorno Volcano at the end of Lake Llanquihue, near Puerto Varas, wiped away any lingering disappointment of missing Fuji! To top that off, we were treated to a home-hosted trout lunch and an incredible view of this spectacular volcano.

Outdoor adventure

A short flight from the nearby Puerto Montt Airport took us to Punta Arenas, overlooking the Strait of Magellan. We had time for a walking tour of the central area before visiting a very impressive, recently completed replica of Magellan’s ship, situated on the edge of town.
The next day we traveled about five hours by private bus to Torres del Paine, considered by many to be Latin America’s finest nature park. The stunning scenery we experienced over the next two days was a highlight of the whole trip.
Our hotel was the lovely Hostería Lago Grey, on the edge of Lago Grey. The lake, with its magnificent glacier and ethereal-blue icebergs, was backed by jagged snowcapped mountain peaks. What a setting!

Fred DeVinney at an ice bar in El Calafate.

Over the next two days we hiked and explored this amazing area, with one hike taking us in for a close-up view of the towering peaks. Another highlight was a boat trip on Lago Grey to the glacier at the far end of the lake. En route, we passed icebergs that were like artistic sculptures in striking blue and white hues.
We topped it all off with pisco sours on deck made with real glacial ice. It was quite cold and windy, so we were thankful we had packed enough layers of clothing, including jackets, gloves and stocking caps.
In addition to the splendid scenery, Torres del Paine is abundant with many varieties of birds as well as a large number of guanaco, a relative of the llama and camel, roaming the park.

Back to Argentina

Upon leaving Torres del Paine, we traveled by private bus back into Argentina to El Calafate. We had two evenings on our own in this charming little town and time to enjoy the ambiance and setting of the Kau Yatún Hotel.
Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was just a short drive away. Views of the world’s third-largest glacier can be seen along an extensive set of walkways, allowing visitors to experience it from many different vantage points.
Rising 200 feet at water’s edge and stretching as far back as the eye can see, it was truly an awesome sight.
On our way to the glacier, we were treated to a wonderful aerial show of Andean condors, crested caracara and black-chested buzzard-eagles. On our return, some of us stopped at a newly opened ice bar on the edge of town. Everything, including the walls, floor, bar, chairs and sculptures, was made of ice, yet we were warm with the parkas, gloves and boots they provided. We had a great time, and it certainly was a unique experience.
After a flight back to Buenos Aires, we all gathered for a final banquet in the newly restored Puerto Madero area. There was Argentinean beef, of course, for the carnivores, but other options were available, as they were throughout the trip.
 

Iguassu Falls

We said farewell to some of the new friends we had made; fortunately, half of us were continuing on with the extension to Iguassu Falls.
Although it was a close call, I do think we may have saved the best for last! It got off to a rocky start, as our Iguassu flight was canceled, but Andrea was on the hotline to OAT before others could rush the desk, and within minutes we were booked for the next day.
She then rebooked us into our previous night’s hotel, arranged an afternoon river trip through Tigre on the edge of Buenos Aires and booked a dinner for that night. Everything was also rearranged on the extension, so nothing was missed. Very impressive!
Upon our arrival at Iguassu airport, we headed to Yacutinga Lodge, with spacious individual cabins in a tropical setting, a beautiful, artistically decorated central lodge and excellent meals for a 2-night stay. From glaciers to jungle in two days!

A series of walkways provides up-close views of Iguassu Falls.

Guided nature walks enhanced our appreciation for the plant and animal life within this dense tropical ecosystem. An optional kayak trip, time to relax and enjoy a swim and the presence of very few mosquitoes all added to our enjoyment.
The outstanding American Portal del Iguazú near the Argentinean side of Iguassu Falls was our home for the next two nights. We were upgraded to rooms overlooking the large pool complex at the intersection of two rivers, with Brazil on one side and Paraguay on the other. The restaurant was very good, and local musicians provided entertainment in the evening.
Nothing had prepared us for the immensity and stunning grandeur of this amazing labyrinth of falls, with enormous, billowing cascades of water as far as the eye could see!
Over two days we explored Iguassu from both the Brazilian and Argentinean sides. Both countries have set up extensive sets of walkways and viewing areas over, under and around the falls, where you experience the roaring sounds and heavy mist emanating from these rushing cliffs of water. It’s a photographer’s paradise.
To cap it all off, we took the optional Zodiac ride close to some of the more spectacular falls. The boat wound up the Iguassu River Canyon past a number of falls, culminating in a breathtaking look straight up into Devil’s Throat, the largest and most impressive of the falls in this vast network. While everyone got soaking wet (plastic bags were provided for cameras, etc.), it was hot out, so it was totally refreshing. A fitting climax to an extraordinary trip.
For the 17-day base trip, the 2013 price ranges from $3,995 to $4,395 per person, sharing, plus $1,695 for the 5-day Iguassu extension. Single supplements tend to be quite low, currently as low as $195 on the base trip. These prices include all internal flights but not international air.
We used bonus miles for our round-trip flight to Buenos Aires, but OAT can arrange international flights and they tend to cost less than what is otherwise available to individuals. The maximum number of travelers per trip is 16.